Cover photo: “Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto” Shangai © Power Station of Art
The exhibition Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto has made waves as one of the most significant historical fashion showcases of the decade. After captivating audiences at London’s prestigious Victoria & Albert (V&A) Museum from September 2023 to March 2024, the exhibition has made its way to China, currently hosted by the Power Station of Art (PSA) in Shanghai until 24 November 2024. The exhibition offers an extraordinary retrospective of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s career, tracing the evolution of her groundbreaking designs in fashion, accessories, beauty, and high jewelry from the early 1900s to the 1970s.
A pivotal component of both exhibitions is the lighting design, which plays a crucial role in creating the ambience while preserving delicate textiles and showcasing the historical garments in all their beauty. The lighting solutions for the London and Shanghai editions of the exhibition were developed by two leading studios—Studio ZNA in London and Tillotson in Shanghai—working with Precision by Luminii for the V&A and Diller Scofidio + Renfro (DS+R) for PSA.
Lighting Design at the V&A, London
Studio ZNA, a London-based lighting design studio founded by Zerlina Hughes in 2006, was responsible for the London edition of Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto.With a portfolio spanning 18 years of commissions and projects for museums, galleries, luxury stores, and cultural spaces, Studio ZNA takes a dual approach, blending original creativity with deep technical expertise. For them, light is not just a functional element but a true source of inspiration, making them the perfect choice for such a prestigious exhibition.
To perfectly illuminate the wide range of garments and accessories on display, Studio ZNA opted for the Pico Display Spotlight by Precision from Luminii, featuring three interchangeable optics and adjustable beam angles. «We always trust the Precision design team to deliver products with excellent performance,» stated Studio ZNA.
The Pico Display Spotlight was selected not only for its aesthetics but also for its functionality. Its lockable design ensures that, once the lights are carefully positioned, they stay fixed, maintaining consistency throughout the exhibition. Even small shifts in lighting could have altered the visual experience for viewers, so this feature was critical.
Sustainability and Durability
Another standout feature of the Pico Display Spotlight is its durability. Although installed over a decade ago for other exhibitions at the V&A, the Pico spotlights continue to perform exceptionally well, proving to be a sustainable choice. Peter McClelland, designer of the Pico and Creative Director of Precision, commented:
«It’s great to see the Pico still being used in major museum projects over ten years after its release. It’s a privilege to light such stunning pieces of fashion history.»
Lighting Design at the Power Station of Art, Shanghai
The Shanghai edition of Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto is hosted at the Power Station of Art (PSA), China’s first state-run contemporary art museum. Here, Chinese graphic designer Jumping He and New York-based design studio Diller Scofidio + Renfro (DS+R) created an immersive environment that harmoniously blends the museum’s raw industrial architecture with Chanel’s minimalist elegance.
Founded in 1981, Diller Scofidio + Renfro (DS+R) is an internationally renowned studio working across architecture, urban design, art installations, and multimedia performances. For PSA, their goal was to create a lighting design that emphasized Chanel’s timeless style, utilizing cutting-edge technologies like PDLC glass systems and multilayered video projections to create an engaging visual experience.
This high-tech lighting highlights Chanel’s iconic pieces, including her signature braided tweed suits and quilted 2.55 bags, while smoothly transitioning between the exhibition’s two chronological sections, covering sixty years of her work.
Focus on Modernity and Simplicity
The lighting design at PSA reflects Chanel’s fashion manifesto: simplicity, radicality, and pure lines. Miren Arzalluz, one of the exhibition’s curators, notes:
«The goal was to reimagine the project around the same big ideas. The scenography is not only about the space, but also a part of the expression.»
At the end of this comparison, we can confidently say that the collaboration between world-renowned lighting designers and the exhibition curators has allowed Gabrielle Chanel’s revolutionary vision to shine even brighter: a fitting tribute to her impact on history, not just fashion.